Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin condition.1 It is the most common form of dermatitis and is associated with significant impairments to quality of life.2 AD lesions are described as ill-defined, pruritic, and erythematous. Lesions are commonly found in flexural regions but can affect any part of the body.1,2
Skin microbiome composition may be another important factor to address in understanding and managing AD. Those with AD have significantly higher relative abundance of
Given increased awareness of the connection between the mind and the body, it is important to highlight the correlations between AD and psychological states. Studies suggest that adults with AD are more likely to report depressed mood and increased psychological distress.5 Periods of psychological distress have also been associated with increased rates of barrier disruption.6
Maintenance therapy for those with AD consists of the regular use of emollients.7 Standard first line treatment for flares consists of topical corticosteroid (TC) use with possible use of non-steroidal topical agents.7 While these options can be effective for AD, there is growing patient concern about TC use, highlighting the need for alternatives,1 like plant-biotech-based moisturizers.
Research suggests that plant-biotech-derived actives can support the skin barrier, modulate the microbiome, and decrease inflammation. For example,
Topical plant-derived oils have also been studied for skin health.14–16 Sunflower oil has been found to support stratum corneum integrity and improve skin hydration,17 and
In this study, we examine the combined effect of various plant-biotech-derived and cosmetic ingredients in a lotion and a gentle soap in adults with AD. Keeping the multi-faceted nature of AD in mind, we investigate changes not only in AD severity, pruritus, and skin biophysical features, but also the impact on the skin microbiome, and changes in positive and negative effect.
The moisturizer used was Bia Eczema Relief Lotion (Codex Labs, San Jose, CA). It contains: 1% colloidal oatmeal, aqua,
The soap used was Bia Unscented Soap (Codex Labs, San Jose, CA) and it contains: sodium olivate, sodium cocoate, sodium shea butterate, aqua,
Subjects were instructed to use the soap up to twice daily while bathing, and the moisturizer as needed. All investigational products were stored securely at room temperature.
Test strain suspensions were freshly prepared from the log phase. A co-culture of the test microorganisms was prepared in a 1:10 ratio. For the test preparation, a master mix 75% ml PBS, 5% Tryptic soy (CASO) broth and 10% of the respective microbe suspension were mixed with 500 µl of the product.
Incubation took place under shaking 4 h (‘leave on’ products) at 32°C ± 2°C. Samples were plated and bacterial counts are determined in triplicates at time points t = 0 and t = 4 h, respectively. The CFU/ml and the ratios between product and control were then calculated.
Eligible participants were healthy male and female subjects, aged 18 years and older, with Fitzpatrick I to IV phototypes. Participants had active AD with a scoring atopic dermatitis (SCORAD) score between 25 and 50. Subjects were required to maintain their hygiene and makeup habits throughout the study. Exclusion criteria included pregnant or nursing women, and use of antibiotics or antifungal treatments to their body or scalp one month prior to enrollment.
This eight-week, open-label clinical trial took place between March and September 2024 in Malbork, Poland. It was conducted by EUROFINS Dermscan/Pharmascan (Gdańsk, Poland) in compliance with the Declaration of Helsinki (1964) and its subsequent amendments. The Internal Bioethics Committee at Dermscan Poland approved the protocol. Data collection followed the study protocol, current internal procedures, and Good Clinical Practice (GCP) guidelines (CPMP/ICH/135/95 [R2]. Written informed consent was obtained from all participants prior to enrollment. The study was registered retroactively on clinicaltrials.gov with identifier NCT06804070.
Participants meeting all criteria were enrolled in the study. Prior to the baseline (D0), all enrolled subjects completed a wash-out period, using the unscented soap twice daily for 2–3 days. Each participant acted as their own control throughout the study. During the study, participants were instructed to use the soap on the entire body twice daily (morning and evening) in replacement of their usual cleansing product. Subjects were instructed to use the moisturizer on the body, especially on active lesions of AD at least twice daily and as often as needed. However, for each subject, 1 area of the body with no active AD lesion, as selected by a dermatologist, was spared from moisturizer application. No modifications were made to the methods or trial outcomes after the study began, and it concluded once all participants completed the required visits. Study visits were scheduled at a standard interval (SI) screening, baseline (D0), week 4 (D28), and week 8 (D56).
SCORAD scores were assessed at D0 and D56, using a three-step process to evaluate the extent score (A), intensity score (B) and the pruritus/insomnia score (C). The total SCORAD score was calculated using the formula: A/5 + 7B/2 + C. The objective SCORAD (oSCORAD) score, which excludes the subjective components, was calculated using the formula: A/5 + 7B/2.
Additional measures of pruritus improvement assessed at D56 included the number of subjects achieving a 4-point reduction in the NRS the proportion of subjects with an NRS of 0 or 1, and the proportion of subjects reporting an NRS of 0. The third method was a global assessment of pruritus, where subjects rated their pruritus severity on a scale of 0=no, 1=mild, 2=moderate, and 3=severe pruritus at the SI.
All biophysical measurements were taken after subjects had a 15-minute period to acclimate to ambient conditions in a climate-controlled room.19 Measurements were collected at SI on predetermined skin areas, including one treated area with an active lesion and one non-treated area without a lesion. The following biophysical properties were assessed: trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) using a Tewameter® (Courage + Khazaka, Köln, Germany), skin hydration using a Corneometer® (Courage + Khazaka, Köln, Germany), and squamae surface area (SSS) in mm2 and desquamation index (DI) using D-Squame® (Clinical and Derm LLC, Dallas, TX, USA).
PANAS is a validated patient-oriented questionnaire that measures positive and negative effects.20 Participants were asked to evaluate the degree to which they experienced effective components over the past week: Interested, Distressed, Excited, Upset, Strong, Guilty, Scared, Hostile, Enthusiastic, Proud, Irritable, Alert, Ashamed, Inspired, Nervous, Determined, Attentive, Jittery, Active, and Afraid. A 5-point scale was used for responses, ranging from 1 (very slightly or not at all) to 5 (extremely).
Two macrophotographs of selected areas were taken using a Nikon D90 camera at D0, D28, and D56. One selected area was a treated area with an AD active lesion (hand or arm or around the elbow), and the other selected area was a non-treated area without an AD lesion.
Differences in SCORAD scores, pruritus responses, TEWL, hydration, SSS, and DI were analyzed using a paired Student t-test for parametric measures. Non-parametric data were evaluated using the Wilcoxon rank-sum analysis. A p-value < 0.05 was deemed statistically significant. All comparisons were made within groups, with baseline data serving as the control.
Incubation with the moisturizer in the ex vivo assay showed that the moisturizer promoted an increased ratio of
Of the 34 participants enrolled, 71% were female (n=24) and 29% were male (n=10). The mean age of participants was 32 years (range, 22-52). Of all participants, 26% (n=9) and 74% (n=25) had Fitzpatrick skin types I and II, respectively. The average total SCORAD at D0 was 29.8 (range, 25-46). The flow of participants throughout the study is shown in Figure 2. Thirty-three subjects completed the entire study.
Total and objective SCORAD scores were evaluated at D0 and D56. The mean total SCORAD scores were 29.8 and 1.7, representing a 99% reduction (p < 0.0001, Figure 3A). The mean oSCORAD scores were 23.1 and 1.4, representing a 94% reduction (p < 0.0001, Figure 3B). At D56, 91%, 88%, 85%, and 85% of participants achieved oSCORAD50 (50% reduction in oSCORAD compared to D0), oSCORAD75, oSCORAD90, and oSCORAD100, respectively (Figure 3C).
The mean pruritus NRS reduced from 4.2 to 0.3 (p < 0.0001) between D0 and D56 (Figure3A). The proportion of subjects at D56 that achieved a 4-point reduction in their NRS was 91%, an NRS of 0 or 1 was 94%, and an NRS of 0 was 79% (Figure 4B). The subject global assessment of pruritus revealed a significant reduction (p < 0.0001) at both D28 and D56 (Figure 4C).
The TEWL decreased significantly in lesional skin by 22% (p < 0.0001) and 40% (p = 0.002) at D28 and D56, respectively. On non-lesional skin, there were no significant changes to TEWL. See Figure 5A.
On lesional skin, the skin hydration increased significantly by 42% (p < 0.0001) and 78% (p < 0.0001) at D28 and D56, respectively. On non-lesional skin, skin hydration showed no significant changes. See Figure 5B.
The surface occupied by squamae (in mm2) in lesional skin decreased significantly by 49% (p < 0.0001) and 64% (p < 0.0001) at D28 and D56, respectively. At the control site, the surface occupied by squamae significantly decreased by 32% (p = 0.03) at D28 and decreased by 44% (p = 0.01) at D56. See Figure 5C.
The desquamation index in lesional skin decreased significantly by 51% (p < 0.0001) and 65% (p < 0.0001) at D28 and D56, respectively. At the control site, the desquamation index significantly decreased by 32% (p = 0.03) at D28 and by 45% (p = 0.01) at D56. See Figure 5D.
There were no significant changes seen in the overall or component positive affect scores. However, the overall negative affect score decreased at D56 (p < 0.07, Figure 6A), and significant improvements were observed in two negative affect components (Figure 6B). More specifically, there was a significant decrease in distress (p < 0.008) and upset (p = 0.046).
Photographs of active AD sites treated with the moisturizer and soap are shown in Figures 7 and 8.
During the study, 5 participants experienced an adverse event. Adverse events included throat infection, three headaches, and a toothache. Each event was self-limiting and not deemed to be related to the studied products. None of these adverse events led to an interruption in study protocol or withdrawal.
The efficacy of this novel topical treatment can be attributed to ingredients in both the soap and the moisturizer. Although the use of cleansing bars can disrupt the skin barrier, this soap was cold-processed, which has been shown to allow high glycerin content, a lower pH (7-8), a less irritating mix of fatty acids, and improved sensory perception.21 It contained AD-supporting emollients like sunflower seed oil, coconut and shea butters, as well as carrot and calendula extracts.22
The use of sunflower seed oil as the principal carrier and penetration enhancer further improves the results with hydration and skin barrier protection, attributed to its linoleic and oleic acid content, and reduction of TEWL.23,24 Additionally, it is rich in vitamins C, D, E, and beta-carotene, contains omega-6 fatty acids to help moisturize without irritation, and has demonstrated wound healing properties.25,26
Coconut fruit extract has high levels of polyphenols, antioxidants, and helps repair the skin barrier.15
The plant-biotech actives in the moisturizer may contribute to improvements in eczema through reducing inflammation and oxidative stress that may be associated with AD.30 For example,
In addition, the rosmarinic acid from
The preservation system used in the moisturizer consists of
The reductions in SCORAD index and pruritus NRS reflect the synergy between the plant-biotech ingredients in the moisturizer and soap. Previous work that assessed the impact of the specific plant-biotech actives on skin cells revealed that they reduced the gene expression of interleukin-4 (IL-4) in skin cells while increasing the expression of structural protein genes.49,50 Since IL-4 is one of the main drivers in type 2 inflammation in AD and pruritus, this agrees with the reduction in both AD severity and in pruritus found in this study.51
Though this study did not demonstrate significant improvement in positive affect, as measured by the PANAS questionnaire, there was improvement in overall negative affect, and a significant reduction in distress and upset. These improvements in mood may be attributed to the significant reductions in pruritus, which US adults with AD report to be one of their most burdensome symptoms.52 Because 81% of AD patients have reported that stress worsens their pruritus,53 it is possible that reduction of distress contributed to improvements in pruritus and skin parameters.
There are several limitations to note. The sample size was small with a female majority and Fitzpatrick I-II types. Therefore, the results warrant future studies in a larger population with more males and higher Fitzpatrick phototypes. This study utilized the SCORAD scoring system instead of the total body EASI for assessment of the AD, but this allowed for differentiation between the total and the objective SCORAD scores as well as for assessment of pruritus. Additionally, the composition of the moisturizer and soap did not allow for assessment of individual ingredients. In future clinical trials, a head-to-head study comparing these study products to traditionally used topical moisturizers and soaps, or to other plant-based topicals will be helpful in understanding the relative efficacy of non-prescription topicals on AD. Lastly, this study was limited to those with mild-to-moderate AD and no conclusions can be made about the impact of the moisturizer and soap in those with severe AD.
The results of this study showed significant reduction in disease severity in patients with
mild to moderate AD. These findings suggest that the plant-biotech moisturizer and soap effectively restore skin barrier and alleviate AD symptoms. The results also show improvement in skin barrier structural integrity as evidenced by desquamation index reduction and beneficial changes in skin biophysical properties. Further studies that expand the study population and include assessments of the local microbiome are warranted.
JM reports serving as a consultant for Codex Labs (stockholder). PAL reports being on the speaker’s bureau for AbbVie, Arcutis, Eli Lilly, Galderma, Hyphens Pharma, Incyte, La Roche-Posay/L’Oréal, Pfizer, Pierre-Fabre Dermatologie, Regeneron/Sanofi Genzyme, Verrica; reports consulting/advisory boards for Alphyn Biologics (stock options), AbbVie, Almirall, Amyris, Arcutis, ASLAN, Bristol-Myers Squibb, Burt’s Bees, Castle Biosciences, Codex Labs (stock options), Concerto Biosci (stock options), Dermavant, Eli Lilly, Galderma, Janssen, LEO Pharma, Lipidor, L’Oréal, Merck, Micreos, MyOR Diagnostics, Regeneron/Sanofi Genzyme, Sibel Health, Skinfix, Suneco Technologies (stock options), Soteri Skin (stock options), Theraplex, UCB, Unilever, Verdant Scientific (stock options), Verrica, Yobee Care (stock options). In addition, Dr. Lio has a patent pending for a Theraplex product with royalties paid and is a Board member and Scientific Advisory Committee Member emeritus of the National Eczema Association. RKS reports serving as an advisor for LearnHealth, Arbonne, and Codex Labs, and Trace Minerals and has served as a consultant or speaker for Burt’s Bees, Novozymes, Almirall, Novartis, Incyte, Lilly, Sanofi, Bristol Myers Squibb, Pfizer, Nutrafol, Galderma, Abbvie, Leo, UCB, Sun, and Regeneron Pharmaceuticals.
Funding for this study was provided by Codex Labs.
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